Please Address All Christmas Cards and Love Letters to:

Emma Browne

Shanghai, PR China

Hongkou District

333 Linping Rd, Building 6, #2103

or if you're really ambitious

Emma Browne

中国上海虹口区

临平路333号6号楼2103室

Pancake Lady and Man Save the Day

This morning had the potential to be quite miserable. After going to bed a bit later than usual on a work night, I was extremely confused to be blared awake from a deep state of REM by my cacophonous cell phone alarm. I glanced out my window and didn't believe it could be 6:00 already; visibility was only about 5 meters outside, as the fog penetrates the air on the 21st floor in the early morning much more than down below. Of course, after accidentally snoozing for 24 minutes (8-minute intervals), I awoke much later than I intended to, and had a late start to my day.

I keep my life in a small wristlet: my keys, my subway card, and my cash. Alas, after walking the 5 minute walk to my regular breakfast joint (AKA a man and a woman who sell delicious fried dough with eggs from a small cart), I was distraught to realize I'd left my life behind, back in the apartment. This meant not only did I have no money to pay for my breakfast (only1.8 kuai), but I also didn't have money to take my 2 buses to commute to work. I was extremely stressed because if I had to walk all the way back to the apartment, and all the way back out to the bus stop, then wait for a later bus, which would mean more traffic, I would most certainly be late for work. I started to walk away from Pancake Lady and Man, but they yelled after me in Chinese "Aimei! Aimei! Where are you going???" I explained to them that I left my money behind, and had to run back to get it before I was late for work! They not only said this was impossible, but actually looked offended that I didn't ask them to help me! They gave me my breakfast, and pushed 4 kuai into my hand for the two buses that I had to take to school, and insisted that I take it, and pay them back whenever the next time I come is.

It truly made my morning that my favorite local street food preparers feel comfortable enough with me to know that I'll make good on any debt I owe. It may be a sum of less than a US dollar, but the sentiment means significantly more.

A Shang-highlight

My roommates and I discovered a new location that is one of my new favorites in all of the city. Although I haven't yet had a repeat experience, I'm certain it will happen soon. You've seen the pictures of the slums that we see being demolished behind our apartment complex (Rainbow City), and one of our common routes for dinner or otherwise is to walk down Tianbao Rd, a street that goes down one side of the perimeter of the slum. Just as within where some families have only rubble piles as their neighbors, there are thriving restaurants and shops next to recently demolished ones on this road. After walking a few blocks, the buildings grow taller and shinier the closer that you come to entering He Ping Park.

Gianmarco and Garrett in front of one of our favorite restaurants on Tianbao Rd, "Panda Express"

Just before the Northern gate of the park, however, is an intriguing door with a young woman in traditional Chinese dress beckoning you to investigate further. Behind her is a large, uncovered foyer with a cobblestone pathway and lush bonsai tree garden. The lone character hanging above the door indicates that it is a tea house, which sounded like the perfect thing to fight the chill of Shanghai's biting winter air. We awkwardly stumble in after the young woman, as we follow her while trying to take in all of the beauty around us. She tries to seat us inside a private room, and although our shivers tempt us to take this warmer option, we can't turn down the tranquil sights of overlooking He Ping park from a table outside near the lake. After wandering around with mouths agape for a few more minutes, we finally sit down to take a look at the menu.

Our English-teacher budgeting opts us to automatically order three of the cheapest teas available, for 68 kuai each (about $10). Garrett tried a young white tea, Gianmarco a mind enlightenment tea, and I a golden oolong tea. Although it was a pretty steep price to pay just for a pot of tea, we were excited about the atmosphere, so willing to shell up the Maos. Immediately, they began to bring sunflower seeds, nuts, fruits, candy, and other snacks to our table until it was virtually covered with delicious things to eat. Then came the tea: a minimalist tumbler of loose tea leaves for Garrett, a beautiful clear pot full of flowers, dried fruit, and leaves for Gianmarco, and an entire Chinese tea ceremony with wood blocks for my oolong. We sat in the garden for hours sipping our tea, munching on snacks, and reflecting on our lives. It is one of the few places where I've gone in this city of 20 million people that I was able to get away from crowded streets, and it was definitely a welcome escape.

And now I leave you with a photo of the Dumbo Octopus. Probably the cutest of all of the octopuses! Yay!

Currently Reading: Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
Currently Listening To: The Beatles - Abbey Road